The name of the HDMI connector (High Definition Multimedia Interface) literally translates as High Definition Multimedia Interface. Seven companies participated in its development in 2003: Philips, Hitachi, Thomson, Matsushita Electric Industrial, Silicon Image, Toshiba and Sony.

HDMI connector used as an interface for transmitting high quality uncompressed digital video and audio signals. The HDMI interface supports maximum resolution transmission of video and audio signals in formats such as DTS, LPCM, DVD-Audio, Dolby Digital, Super Audio CD, etc. HDMI can have a maximum data rate of up to 10.2 Gbps (340 MHz). The interface uses the TMDS protocol.

TMDS is a differential signal transmission method with transition minimization. The transmitter includes an advanced signal encoding algorithm that reduces electromagnetic interference generated in the wires and provides a reliable system for restoring the clock signal after a failure in the receiver when using a long cable or a short cable of poor quality.

Despite the fact that this type of connector supports “hot” plugging, that is, there is no need to turn off the power to the connected devices, for greater safety it is still better to play it safe and connect devices with the power off, especially when connecting the TV to a computer.

The HDMI specification defines the signals, protocols, electrical interfaces, and mechanical requirements of the standard. There are five types of HDMI connectors:

• Type "A" - 19 pins, specification 1.0
• Type "B" - 29 pins, specification 1.0
• Type "C" - 19 pins (mini), specification 1.3
• Type "D" - 19 contacts (micro), specification 1.4
• Type "E" - 19 pins, specification 1.4

Pinout of HDMI connectors

Below is HDMI pinout connectors. Pin numbering on the solder side of the plug.

Type "A"

VGA, DVI, HDMI, YC, SCART connector contacts

Wiring of cables for YUV (Y/PbCb/PrCr), VGA HD15, DVI, HDMI, s-Video, SCART (Peritel, Euroconnector) signals.

VGA, DVI, HDMI, YC, SCART connector contacts

VGA HD15 connector pins

Cont.	Signal	Description
1	RED	Channel R (red) (75 ohms, 0.7 V)
2	GREEN	Channel G (green) (75 ohms, 0.7 V)
3	BLUE	Channel B (blue) (75 ohms, 0.7 V)
4	ID2	ID bit 2
5	GND	Earth
6	RGND	R channel ground
7	GGND	G channel ground
8	BGND	Channel Ground B
9	KEY	No contact (key)
10	SGND	Earth Sync
11	ID0	ID bit 0
12	ID1 or SDA	ID bit 1 or DDC data
13	HSYNC or CSYNC	Linear or composite synchronization
14	VSYNC	Frame synchronization
15	ID3 or SCL	ID bit 3 or DDC clocks

Wiring of cable Kramer BC5x5S (5-coaxial)

Kramer BC3x2T7S cable wiring (3-coaxial, presentation)

Wiring out the YUV signal (Y/PbCb/PrCr) from the VGA HD15 connector (for Kramer VP-41 4(xl), VP-419xl, VP-420, VP-421, VP-724xl, VP-728, VP-729 scalers, VP-730, VP-731, VP-725xl, VP-727, VP-747)

DVI-I/DVI-D connector pins

Cont.	Signal	Signal (Russian)
1	T.M.D.S DATA 2-	T.M.D.S data 2-
2	T.M.D.S DATA 2+	T.M.D.S 2+ data
3	T.M.D.S DATA 2/4 SHIELD	Screen for T.M.D.S 2 and 4 data
4	T.M.D.S DATA 4-	T.M.D.S data 4-
5	T.M.D.S DATA 4+	Data T.M.D.S 4+
6	DDC CLOCK	DDC clocks
7	DDC DATA	DDC data
8	ANALOG VERT. SYNC	Analog Frame Sync.
9	T.M.D.S DATA 1-	T.M.D.S data 1-
10	T.M.D.S DATA 1+	T.M.D.S data 1+
11	T.M.D.S DATA 1/3 SHIELD	Screen for T.M.D.S 1 and 3 data
12	T.M.D.S DATA 3-	T.M.D.S data 3-
13	T.M.D.S DATA 3+	T.M.D.S 3+ data
14	+5V POWER	Power supply +5 V
15	GND	Earth
16	HOT PLUG DETECT	Hot Plug Sensor
17	T.M.D.S DATA 0-	T.M.D.S data 0-
18	T.M.D.S DATA 0+	T.M.D.S data 0+
19	T.M.D.S DATA 0/5 SHIELD	Screen for T.M.D.S 0 and 5 data
20	T.M.D.S DATA 5-	T.M.D.S data 5-
21	T.M.D.S DATA 5+	Data T.M.D.S 5+
22	T.M.D.S CLOCK SHIELD	Screen for T.M.D.S beats
23	T.M.D.S CLOCK+	T.M.D.S + bars
24	T.M.D.S CLOCK-	T.M.D.S bars -
C1	ANALOG RED	Analog channel R
C2	ANALOG GREEN	Analog channel G
C3	ANALOG BLUE	Analog channel B
C4	ANALOG HORZ SYNC	Analog horizontal sync.
C5	ANALOG GROUND	Analog ground

HDMI connector contacts (Single Link, Type A, up to version 1.4 inclusive)

Cont.	Signal	Signal (Russian)
1	T.M.D.S DATA 2+	T.M.D.S 2+ data
2	T.M.D.S DATA 2 SHIELD	Screen for T.M.D.S 2 data
3	T.M.D.S DATA 2-	T.M.D.S data 2-
4	T.M.D.S DATA 1+	T.M.D.S data 1+
5	T.M.D.S DATA 1 SHIELD	Screen for T.M.D.S data 1
6	T.M.D.S DATA 1-	T.M.D.S data 1-
7	T.M.D.S DATA 0+	T.M.D.S data 0+
8	T.M.D.S DATA 0 SHIELD	Screen for T.M.D.S data 0
9	T.M.D.S DATA 0-	T.M.D.S data 0-
10	T.M.D.S CLOCK+	T.M.D.S + bars
11	T.M.D.S CLOCK SHIELD	Screen for T.M.D.S beats
12	T.M.D.S CLOCK-	T.M.D.S bars -
13	CEC	Consumer Electronics Control Network
14	Utility	Used for HEAC (Ethernet and Audio Return Channel)
15	DDC CLOCK	DDC clocks
16	DDC DATA	DDC data
17	DDC/CEC GND	Ground for DDC and CEC
18	+5V POWER	Power supply +5 V
19	HOT PLUG DETECT	Hot Plug Sensor

S-Video connector pins (YC, S-VHS)

Standard 4-pin MiniDIN connector

7-pin MiniDIN connector (found in ATI video cards, etc.)

10-pin connector (on ATI All-In-Wonder video cards)

Cont.	Signal	Description
1	C	Channel C (Color)
2	S/PDIF ground	S/PDIF Signal Ground
3	SPDIF	SPDIF signal (digital audio)
4	GND	Earth
5	GND	Earth
6	R	Audio, right channel
7	GND	Earth audio
8	Y	Channel Y (Brightness+sync)
9	V	Composite video
10	L	Audio, left channel

10-pin connector (in Matrox G450 video cards, etc.)

Cont.	Signal	Description
1	C (s-video)	Channel C (Color)
2	GND	Earth
3	Y	Channel Y (Brightness+sync)
4	RGB switching control	Control signal
5	Composite sync	Composite sync output
6	GND	Earth
7	V	Composite video
8	L	Audio, left channel
9	GND	Earth
10	R	Audio, right channel

SCART connector pins (Peritel, Euroconnector)

Cont.	Signal	Description	Level
1	AOR	Audio output, right	0.5 V rms
2	AIR	Audio input, right	0.5 V rms	>10 kOhm
3	AOL	Audio output, left + mono	0.5 V rms
4	AGND	Audio Ground
5	B GND	Ground for RGB Blue
6	AIL	Audio input, left + mono	0.5 V rms	>10 kOhm
7	B	RGB Blue input	0.7 V	75 Ohm
8	SWTCH	Input, switching TV mode, depending on the type of TV - Audio/RGB/16:9, sometimes turning on AUX (old TVs)	10-12 V
9	G GND	Earth RGB Green
10	CLKOUT	Data 2: Clockpulse Out, only in older VCRs
11	G	RGB Green input	0.7 V	75 Ohm
12	DATA	Data 1: data output
13	R GND	Earth RGB Red
14	DATAGND	Ground for Data, remote control, only in older VCRs
15	R	RGB Red Input or Channel C Input	R: 0.7 V; C: 0.3 V	75 Ohm
16	BLNK	Blanking Signal input, TV mode switching (composite/RGB), “fast” signal (new TVs)	RGB=1-3 V; Comp=0-0.4 V	75 Ohm
17	VGND	The land of composite video
18	BLNKGND	Ground Blanking Signal (for pin 8 or 16)
19	VOUT	Composite video output	1 V	75 Ohm
20	VIN	Composite video input or Y (luminance) channel	1 V	75 Ohm
21	S.H.I.E.L.D.	Protective screen/housing

Prev.

It often happens that HDMI cables fail. The author of the article once worked as a sales consultant in a household appliances store, so he knows firsthand how unreliable they are in the places where the connectors are located, that is, the ends of the cables.

These wires do not withstand bending and regular reinstallation very well. Ideally, they should be installed and not touched at all, but in practice we often connect laptops and other equipment to the TV, and HDMI, like it or not, begins to suffer.

If it happens to you that the cable has stopped transmitting the signal, but you have another one in stock from which you can remove working connectors, then all you have to do is learn how to solder an HDMI cable and continue to enjoy all the benefits of digital television. Well, or run to the store for a new one - whatever!

Many readers may have a reasonable question - why bother with soldering at all, when for quite modest money you can go and buy a new one, to which we will answer the following:

• Firstly, there is not always a store nearby where you can purchase such products, and such stores are not always open - this is especially true for villages and small towns.
• Secondly, not everyone wants to buy a cheap cable, especially if there was a good one before - we agree that the example is controversial, but still.
• Third, imagine the situation that you already have two cables, and both have one broken connector and one working connector. Why not take it and make one working cable without spending any money? It's both interesting and economical!
• Fourth, the length of the existing HDMI cable may simply not be enough for you, and you will want to extend it. Well, or the connector simply does not fit into the hole in the wall and you don’t want to expand this very hole.

In general, there can be any number of reasons, since situations sometimes develop in the most unexpected ways.

How to understand that the cause of the fault is in the cable

How can a problem with a faulty cable manifest itself:

• The TV displays the following message on the screen: “No video signal”;

• The image is unclear, covered with noise, with a possible color shift towards blue, red or green;

• Instead of the usual picture, the TV gives you these artifacts in the form of stripes of squares and other patterns;

• The picture is there, but there is no sound.
• Other symptoms are also possible, but the essence is the same - first of all, the cables are always checked for functionality, and only then the equipment.

Don’t think that we are kidding, but indeed, very often, inexperienced users cannot understand that the active input on the TV has been changed. So if you see snow like this on the screen, then take the remote control, look for the button for changing inputs (if you don’t know it by sight, look at the instructions), which may be called “Input”, “TV\IN”, “Source” and other. Next, select the one you need from the list provided.

If you have ever held such a cable in your hands, you should know that its “body” is made quite strong and flexible, so if there is no visible damage on it, the problem may only be related to the connectors. How can you be sure there is a problem?

Here are short but effective instructions:

• First of all, try to slightly move the connector plugged into the TV.
• If nothing happens, then pull out the HDMI and plug it back in - sometimes such measures help restore image and sound, since it often happens that there is no normal contact.
• The next step is to change the cable and input, for example, connect tulips, which are still equipped with most video equipment. If the image is restored, then conclusions can be drawn.
• Do a visual inspection of the connectors - they may be bent or even torn off. All questions are immediately resolved here.

Despite the rapid development of technology, it is still impossible to completely abandon the wire. The wires supply power, and HDMI cables transmit high-definition video signals. A wire is simple and reliable, but only as long as it is not damaged.

The weak point of any connecting cable, including HDMI, is the area near the connector. Constant bending contributes to damage to the conductors. Violation of the integrity of the current-carrying core leads to the fact that the cable has to be replaced, although if necessary it can be soldered.

The question of how to solder an HDMI cable will confuse many. Why solder? It is much easier to go to the nearest electronics store and buy a new one. It is difficult to disagree with such a statement, however, one can imagine a lot of situations where soldering is the only possible solution. For example:

• there is no electronics store nearby, which is important for villages and small towns;
• The HDMI cable is laid inside the wall, it is simply impossible to dismantle it without starting a repair;
• There are two non-working HDMI cables; they can be soldered into one;
• You need a long cable, which is not possible to buy.

This is not a complete list of cases in which it is worth taking up a soldering iron, working hard and soldering HDMI with the required parameters.

Main symptoms of malfunction

Before cutting and then soldering, it’s a good idea to make sure that the problem is in the cable. Signs of an HDMI malfunction may vary.

Among the most common:

• TV reports “No signal”;
• there is no clarity in the image, “it’s snowing” on the screen, the gamma is shifted towards one of the primary colors;
• instead of an image on the screen, there is a mosaic of colored rectangles and stripes;
• there is no sound.

All of the above may indicate a problem with the cord, but this is not necessarily the case. Before you take up the tool, intending to solder HDMI, you need to make sure that there are no other, usually basic, faults.

The problem may be caused by the HDMI connector. First you need to move it, take it out several times and put it back in. The connector on the TV is also worth inspecting. It rarely fails, but anything is possible. It doesn’t hurt to make sure once again that it hasn’t been twisted while trying to pull out the cable, that it isn’t clogged with dirt, or, as happens in families with children, with plasticine.

It also wouldn’t hurt to temporarily change the signal delivery method. Disconnect HDMI and connect, for example, RCA. As a last resort, you can solder the test cable using suitable coaxial cable and cinch connectors (although soldering the cinch to such wire will also take time). If the image appears, everything is clear - the reason is in the wire, but if not, the problem is in the TV or in the video source.

Tools for work

Once you are sure that the cause of the problem lies in the HDMI cable, you can begin to correct the situation. First of all, you should take care of the tool. To work, you won’t need much: a multimeter, a soldering iron with a sharp tip, solder is required for it, a mounting or stationery knife, and wire cutters. You will also need insulating material (electrical tape, hot melt adhesive to insulate the connector, or heat shrink to protect the butt joints of the wires).

Considering the fact that the conductors in an HDMI cable are very thin, it would be a good idea to get a soldering table equipped with a magnifying glass. In the absence of one, you can try to build something similar using a clamp, alligator clips and a magnifying glass.

Soldering cable conductors is not so difficult, but before you take up the tool, you need to determine exactly where the integrity of the conductor is broken. The only real way to do this is to connect the cable and methodically bend it to try to figure out the location of the fault. If this does not help, you can only act at random.

Replacing connectors

If the break is located near one of the connectors or the decision is made to replace both of them, the conductors must be soldered directly to the connector pins. The ideal option is to have a detachable connector, the contacts of which can be soldered to the corresponding conductors. If there is none, you will have to remove the old HDMI connector and use it, even though the manufacturer claims that it is disposable.

For ease of use, it is better to immediately bite off the HDMI connector. Using a sharp knife, cut the polymer shell along the adhesive seam and remove it. Under it there is a continuous layer of hot-melt adhesive, which the manufacturer used to fix and at the same time insulate the conductors.

Using the same knife, remove the glue and expose the contact pads. If you use the same cable, there will be no difficulties; you need to gradually solder the conductors one after another, guided by the color of the insulation.

If the task is to solder two cables into one, or a connector from another device is used, this approach may not work. Conductors from different manufacturers will most likely differ in color. You can't do without a multimeter here. Methodically calling each conductor, you need to select the ones you need and solder them with all possible care.

After all the conductors have been soldered, you need to once again check the correctness of the connections using a multimeter.

Even if the outer insulation of the HDMI connector was removed very carefully, it is unlikely to be reused. It’s easier and more reliable to fill the soldering area with hot glue, let it harden, and then carefully form the body of the new connector with the same hot glue. The glue can be hidden using heat-shrinkable insulation of a suitable diameter or wrapped with electrical tape.

Connection of conductors

Another situation is that the integrity of the HDMI is broken approximately in the middle or it is necessary to make one long cable from two short ones. It’s easier to solder HDMI cables together by soldering conductor to conductor.

First of all, you need to cut off the unused HDMI connectors or cut the wire where the integrity of the conductive wires is broken. The result will be two wires with a connector at one end.

At the cut sites, the outer layer of insulation is removed to a distance of 3-4 cm. Underneath is the screen braid, reinforcing thread and conductors protected by a layer of foil. The screen is carefully unraveled and moved to the edge of the insulation; it will need to be soldered again! It provides high quality HDMI signal and guarantees no interference.

The conductors themselves can be divided into twisted pairs (wires woven together) and single cores. They all differ in color, but the color scheme varies among different manufacturers, so a multimeter will come to the rescue.

It's easier to start working with paired conductors. 1-2 mm of insulation is removed from the wire, heat shrink of a suitable diameter is put on. Next, the wires need to be soldered in pairs. As work progresses, the insulating tubes are shrinked using a soldering gun.

The finished pairs are wrapped with electrical tape to avoid confusion. After this, you need to solder the remaining single conductors. Heat-shrinkable insulation tubes are also used to insulate them. The resulting tourniquet is wrapped with electrical tape.

In addition to the current-carrying conductors, it is necessary to restore the integrity of the shielding braid. For this, a piece of wicker screen is used. It must be soldered to the cable screen and wound tightly, turn to turn, around the junction of the wires. All that remains is to solder the new screen to the winding of another part of the cable. To give the HDMI cord completeness, it is insulated. This can be done using regular electrical tape.

Repair of other types of connectors

With a little time and effort, you can independently solder most of the connectors used in everyday life, for example, BNC solder connectors. This type of connector is used in television systems and video surveillance systems. Both Male + Female kits and a separate socket or pin are available for sale. It's not difficult to solder them. The central wire must be soldered to the connector contact, the screen must be soldered to the body.

USB connectors are widely used in computer technology. With their help, almost all modern peripheral devices are connected. It is not difficult to replace a failed connector; ready-made dismountable plugs are available for sale, both standard size and micro format.

Knowing how to use a soldering iron is a useful skill. With just a little effort you can easily handle any minor repairs.

Damaged HDMI, VGA cords, connecting wires for power supplies, mobile phone chargers, all of this can be soldered. And this is not a matter of saving, most of these connectors and wires are not very expensive, this is a way to get out of a difficult situation if there is nowhere and no time to buy a replacement, and it’s just an opportunity to do something with your own hands.

Almost everyone knows what the HDMI interface is; it has long been popular with many users due to its improved characteristics compared to other interfaces. If we talk about the characteristics of an HDMI cable, then, first of all, you need to remember the data transfer speed, which, depending on the HDMI standard, is becoming higher and higher. For example, the HDMI standard allows you to transfer data at speeds of up to 18 Gbit/s. Another important characteristic of an HDMI cable is its ability to transmit audio and video signals simultaneously, and the already mentioned 2.0 standard supports transmission of up to 32 audio channels with a frequency of 1536 kHz.

HDMI interfaces are successfully used in computers and laptops, as well as in TVs and mobile devices. Sometimes it becomes necessary to repair an HDMI cable or connector; this is a rather delicate and difficult matter. To do this, you need to have a pinout diagram for the HDMI cable, which will allow you to navigate the purpose of each individual wire.

What is pinout? Pinout is a designation of the functions of contacts or wires followed by their numbering; it is also sometimes called wiring.

HDMI connector pinout

HDMI cable pinout

As you can see, the pinout of the cable and connector is distinguished by a mirror image of the functions of the contacts, which is logical. To make it easier to navigate when wiring the hdmi connector, the wires have different colors of plastic coating; below is the wiring of the hdmi cable by color.